Friday, March 19, 2010

OF WOLVES AND MEN – AND PHOTOGRAPHY

"One does not need to see a wolf to benefit from its presence" A. Murie


Recently there has been a lot of talk about wolves and photography. Who did not follow the events connected to the winning image at the Veolia Wildlife Photographer of the Year Competition 2009 (a spectacular shot of an Iberian wolf jumping over a fence)?  I was very (and positively) impressed by the great interest the public opinion paid to the inquiry of the judges of the competition to verify whether the overall winner picture was depicting a wild wolf or just a captive one, as reported by some Spanish photographers. Everybody knows now the verdict. The photographer has been disqualified and his title withdrawn: the subject, a wolf named Ossian, lives in an enclosure in a wildlife center near Madrid and had probably been trained to jump in such “unwolfish” way. The photographer had declared that his secret was to have lured a wild wolf to go to a certain spot by means of repetitive baiting. Apparently, the fact that the circumstances in which the picture was taken had already been so severely manipulated was not of pivotal importance for the Competition board as the real nature of the subject.

Months ago, groundbreaking pictures of "wild" European wolves (i.e. close-ups of pups at a den site and a stunning shot of a pack hunting a wild boar) appeared also on the blog of the project “Wild Wonders of Europe” (WWE). The images, taken by the Russian photographer Sergey Gorshkov after fourteen months of work in the field, then have been also published in a large portfolio on the pages of the prestigious British magazine BBC Wildlife. It seemed… The bar of wolf photography was set inexorably higher. This, at least, until the comment of a Russian reader of the WWE’s blog raised the question that also those wolves could be the same living in a local rehabilitation center, where herself had previously taken surprisingly similar shots. As this fired a lively discussion, the project’s organizers committed themselves to verify the circumstances behind those pictures. In reply to it, the photographer told about the many hours he spent in the hide, how he tried to make two wolves packs accustomed to people (“as in Finland”) and how he did rely on hunters’ help to locate a den with pups, whereas the animals were “cunning and cautious” and constantly changed den site.

I will skip for now discussing further such practices of habituation and stalking, which I personally find ethically unacceptable and seriously dangerous for this species, especially in a country like Russia, where it is far from being protected. A first official response came from the organizers: they declared that some of the wolves in the pictures had been released from a rehabilitation center, so de facto “wild”, even though still accustomed to people. For all the other images, they guaranteed the photographer’s good faith. Nevertheless, this didn’t satisfy some keen readers, who confronted the single pictures with what had been declared by the photographer and found some inconsistency both on technical and ethological level. The debate kept on and was eventually solved few days ago with the official exclusion of the photographer and his images from the project. 

I also have a photography-related wolf story. Like many people, I also nurture a deep passion for this species and for everything it represents. Despite living in a wolf-rich country, the Abruzzi region in Italy, I must treasure the rare occasions, when I could observe or photograph this animal in its habitat. Recently I was assigned by a magazine to work on a story centered on the ongoing conflict between men and wolves in Abruzzi and the ways for a possible coexistence. For the article to be complete, I needed a nice picture of a wolf in the typically barren Apennine landscape. I knew it would have been difficult, but I had some sort of plan and enough time. Since I do this job mostly because I like to spend time in nature and observe wildlife, I would have kept myself off from captive animals or controlled situations. It took me almost four months of research, phone calls, walks and hours of wait to obtain some satisfying pictures. On a nice November day, I stumbled upon a solitary wolf male feeding on a horse carcass. Barely hidden by a small bush and a veil of fog, I took dozens of pictures of the feeding animal, even when some cows passed next to him. Unbelievable. 


At a certain point, for some divinity’s benevolence, the wolf left the carcass and trotted straight into my direction. Then, perhaps aware of my presence, he stopped some 50 meters from where I was sitting and, more curious than scared, gave me a brief glance. I will never forget the moment his eyes met mine. Eventually, as true ghosts do, he disappeared into the thickening fog and the magic was complete. The thrill of such a perfect wilderness moment vanished a bit after showing my pictures to the disappointed editors. My idea of a wolf clearly didn’t match theirs. They didn’t look into the wolf’s eyes, but rightly lingered on the dull colors of the pictures, the dry grass in the background, the pixel noise of the digital files. The late American wildlife biologist Adolph Murie wrote: "One does not need to see a wolf to benefit from its presence", but, in the age of animals which jump and kill their prey right in front of the photographers, is the hazelnut-colored look of a wild wolf still enough to persuade an audience?

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Majella: light on the mountain

“The idea of wilderness needs no defense, it only needs defenders.” Edward Abbey







Today I live and work 3/4 of my time in Abruzzo, and in my life I have spent countless days among these mountains. Still, my vast knowledge of this region and its nature always suffered from a large blank spot. I never ventured deep into the wildest and most mystical mountain range of all, the Majella massif – the “Mother” mountain for the locals. (The second peak of the Apennines; valleys even 20Km long with no human living in them; the largest wolf population in Abruzzo!) So, when the environmental organization PAN Parks*, which in Italy has given its prestigious certificate only to the Majella National Park, contacted me last September to purchase some images from the area, I was a bit ashamed to say that I didn't have any good picture of it, but I would have been eager to be assigned to cover some spots for them. Excited as seldom before, I began my first explorations in this unknown wilderness (this is indeed Majella: a pure wilderness in the middle of Italy) with several maps in my backpack (there are 4-5 different versions of Majella’s paths network!) and two months in front of me to accomplish the work. I will skip mentioning all the problems I experienced with the weather (this year we had snow already in October), or with the very long distances and demanding, steep slopes, carrying a heavy backpack on some trails that vanished into nothing. But I will say something of the wilderness.
Majella gave me the healthy shock of encountering a wolf 50m from me on a mountain path one morning and the thrill of having two golden eagles soaring above my head another day. I flushed partridges, crossed streams, found primitive handicrafts, spotted chamois on inaccessible cliffs, walked on tundra-like plateaus, heard the call of the wallcreeper – many times, camped at 2790m asl with -10°C, touched two walls of a canyon by stretching my arms, saw the milky way cross the whole sky and had the incredible luxury of getting lost – three times!

I don’t know many other places here in Italy where all these things can still be found and experienced at such level. I commend the National Park for the groundbreaking commitment in preserving and rewilding these mountains, against all the odds and the public opinion. Come to visit Majella to see this with your own eyes, and give me a call, I would be happy to show you around.


*PAN Parks is a cool organization, working hard to find a way both to protect Europe's wilderness and help the local communities to develop a sustainable economy. I am really glad to have contributed a bit to their mission with my work.
Click on the bear to visit the PAN Parks website.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Echoes of autumn

"He not only lives in the wild, wild woods and moors - he grows out of them, as the oak grows from the ground. The noble stag in his pride of antler is lord and monarch of all the creatures left to us..." (Richard Jefferies)



As the light of summer gives way to the clouds of autumn, in the mountains is the time of the Red deer.
The alpine prairies of the Apennine, golden of sunburned grass, host the traditional arenas of the deer rut.
Dozens of large stags confront themselves, then, all day long for the supremacy of the female herds.
And, while battles are rare, the wild sound of the males bellowing echoes continuosly at dusk along
mountain ridges and valleys.