Images and text: © Bruno D'Amicis Photography - www.brunodamicis.com. All rights reserved worldwide
Tracks usually don't lie,
and after so much searching me and my assistant had finally come upon
what we were looking for: a line of footprints left by a small herd
of Addax antelopes; the survivors of a group of few individuals
reintroduced in the early 2000s to the Tunisian protected area we
were in. The animas were again living “free” in their ancient
habitat, albeit under close watch of rangers to prevent poaching from
wiping them out again. The first reason why I was in the Grand Erg
Oriental actually was to search of another endangered species, the
Slender-horned gazelle or Rhim, but since I had notice of this small
group of Addax existing nearby, I did not want to pass the chance for
a possible first encounter with the species and so I took a short
break from the main purpose of the trip.
We kept following the
antelope tracks until we could spot four white shapes on the horizon.
The Addax were slowly moving through the dunes, unwary of our
presence. Being born in semi-captivity in another reserve in Morocco
and after their reintroduction having been strictly protected, those
animals did not perceive humans as a threat and seemed very obliging.
Some two hundred meters before reaching them, my assistant stood and
I went on alone. The antelopes briefly raised their heads from
grazing, to return immediately to feed. I could approach them very
close and started walking next to them, taking many pictures in the
process. They were so beautiful with their white coat and the elegant
dark design on the head; the long, twisted horns were shining in the
fading light. I was very happy to have finally met this legendary
animal up close and photograph it in its habitats. Eventually, when
darkness came, I left the antelopes alone, moved by this beautiful
encounter.
The sight was great and
the pictures not bad at all. Nevertheless, hours later I realized
that this experience had left me with a bittersweet taste. Despite
the aesthetical joy of watching a “wild” herd of Addax roaming
free in the Sahara, I was not completely satisfied. By looking at the
pictures on the rear of my camera I could not feel any of the vibrant
emotions Dragesco's photograph had conveyed. My pictures lacked
wildness and uncertainty. Although those animals were back to an area
where they had been chased to extinction less than a century ago,
they seemed out of place. And my succesful “adventure” did not
have at all the taste of the real thing, but only of fake. If I
wanted to feel accomplished, then I would have had to stick to my
original plan and keep waiting for a window of opportunity to go to
Niger.
A couple years more had
passed since that encounter in Tunisia but the chance to reach the
last truly wild herd of Addax had not presented itself to me yet.
Meanwhile, I had been in close touch with the scientists who, despite
the critical political situation, were still carrying out annual
aerial surveys of the antelopes in Niger and each time I waited
anxiously for their reports. Where once were hundreds of thousands of
Addax antelopes roaming the whole Sahara, from the Atlantic coast to
Egypt, now less than two hundred animals seemed to have survived just
in a certain area in South-East Niger. An area where international
conservation NGOs had helped Niger's government creating a large
national park, to ensure the survival of those last antelopes.
Besides the wild popultaion, one could theoretically count also on a
"reservoir" of some hundreds individuals surviving in
enclosures, zoos or other fenced areas across the world. The
situation for the wild herd was undoubtedly very critical, but it
seemed stable at least and there was some hope, for the animals to
survive and also... for me to visit them one day!
Yet even this little
optimism was not bound to last too long.
In the spring of 2016
some shocking news revealed that, despite some great effort, the
latest scientific survey carried out in Niger had produced just an
observation of 3 (!) frightened Addax antelopes. In their report the
organization was quite clear on the reason for this sudden decline,
blaming the poaching carried out by soldiers employed to protect
Chinese-owned oil installations. In a place where years of political
uncertainty have created a hotspot for drug smuggling, weapon traffic
and wildlife trade the existance of a national park wasn't probably
enough of an obstacle to stop criminal activities. While these sad
news did not come as a surprise, they are of serious concern as they
mean the probable extinction of this magnificent
species in the wild.
At this point it is very
unlikely that I will ever be able to observe these animals in the
Sahara. But what hurts me the most is not the impossibility to
fulfill my longlasting dream, it is rather the complete lack of
general awareness surrounding this issue. Ask around and see how many
people know about the situation of the Addax antelope or any other
endangered Saharan species: simply nobody does. In the Sahara and
Sahel we are witnessing one of the greatest environmental
devastations of all times and almost noone is talking about it. It is
indeed very sad. But, on the other hand, what can one expect? If even
the largest and longest-lasting conservation and media campaigns
haven't managed to ensure a certain future to rhinos and elephants,
how could a small team of field scientists and a handful of blurred
pictures help raise awareness about the disappearance of the Sahara's
most charismatic wildlife?
It is always painfully
difficult to manage one's anger when it comes about a species
becoming extinct, a natural place being destroyed. Yet, this time and
for all the reasons I am here writing about, the acceptance of what
is going on in Niger is extremely hard for me. This is why I have
dared to disturb and bring in movie director Darren Aronofsky and his
weird movie “Requiem for a dream” because it seemed the perfect
title to me for this article. Yes, let the dreams rest in peace. My
own dreams and those of all the people who are working hard to save
this doomed animal!
Sadly, this won't be the
last species we are going to lose in the near future. With each
disappearing animal, plant or place we also lose a chunk of our
imagination and our freedom. As this process goes on, the world
becomes smaller and smaller and I wonder what will be left to our and
the next generations of nature enthusiasts and photographers.
Technology can surely help us in making it easier to get great shots,
cheaper airplane fares will make us all reach the remotest places,
but I wonder of what avail will all the megapixels of newer cameras
be one day without the basic dreams to drive our fantasy?